Wand Adapter

Had the Silicone one but this one is better.

And helps with the Anvil as well as the Tempest for which it was bought!

Great addition to the wand

The new wand comes with a basic black adapter which serves its purpose but highly recommended to change it out with one of these bad boys. This and the stand’s a must for any wand user in my opinion.

Works great for the tempest. Playing around with the depth of the cup will get you different results. I've found the height in my picture with 600f time out on the wand is perfect 1he every time.

Almost indispensable for precise positioning and hand free use with the Wand IH.
As the Wand Stand and the Reload, it's one of MH accessories who make the Tempest user experience so nicer.

The fact that its transparent glass gives the user the ability to see through the adapter the Visual Indicator movements when heating.
Useful for any consecutive bowl when the Tempest Cap has already a lot of heat left, and the user only needs a quick reheat, not a full heat cycle.

The depth of insertion is important for the precision of the Tempest temperature indicators, the goal is to heat only one component on the Cap: the Induction sleeve.
Downside is that a part of the heat is absorbed by the glass.
The Wand stand makes the hot glass adapter not touching any undesirable surface.

To install, first push the silicone part alone fully, then insert the glass until its flush to red O-ring on the bottom side of the Wand.

For an easier learning curve, it's best to keep the insertion depth at the same position and play with the Wand temperature/timer instead.
A too high position will directly heat the VI housing, and mess with the temp indicators calibration, not good.
A too deep position will directly heat the threading part on the Cap, and could make the load burn.

It requires a bit of force to take the glass off. I use the Tempest (delicately) or a wood rod to push down the glass, my other hand is positioned to the bottom, ready to fall into it.
With use, some residue slowly will build up inside the glass Wand adapter, a quick Q-tip swab with some ISO every 20-30 bowls is recommended.

Stock configuration (2.5mm Zirconia) give me three optimal ways of extraction, with Mouth To Lung or Restricted Direct Lung draws:
-Half bowl one aggressive heating cycle, high temp extraction, better for consecutive fast/fresh bowls   300 to 380°C Wand timer or 3/4flame Wand flow.mod
-Full bowl position not fully loaded, two gentle heating, easy control for low/medium temp extraction    200 to 300°C W"  "or 2 flame Wand flow.mod
-Full bowl fully loaded, gentle multiple heating, temp stepping session extraction                       200 to 320°C W"     "

Also compatible with standard size Dynavap, Armor Cap, Duracore and Thermocore Anvil.
Not usable with the HyperDyn titanium tip and cap; even if it can fit inside the Wand adapter, too much heat gets absorbed rapidly by the glass,
which drastically slows any conductive thermal transfer to the bowl, totally heat inefficient.

Some Wand IH tips:
The temperature on the screen doesn't manage any temperature control in any way, it only defines a timer limit to the heating cycle.
The small thermocouple white wire next to the induction coil is only for the device overheat protection.
Do not adjust the Wand temperature/timer while the device is already heating, it will mess with Fahrenheit value when on the Celsius degree temp.

Battery gauge on the Wand screen doesn't really show the autonomy left, but instead shows the voltage of the batteries in real-time.
One battery bar (3.7V) can still do a few more heat cycles. The Wand cut off is when each battery is down to 3.5 volts.

When the Wand orange light stops blinking and stays on, the time remaining before the "Time out" screen message is always 15sec.
During this 15sec, the Wand is still heating, but at a much lower power.
The same happens when the Wand is on flower mode (green light), except that the time is always 10sec.

The power is higher when the batteries are fully charged, it reduces the heating cycle time.
For more consistent results with the timer and better battery longevity, I swap batteries when there is one bar left (3.7V) on the screen while the Wand is cold/rest.
With old 2020 Samsung 25R batteries, I get about 6 heat cycles from a room temp Tempest until 3.7V, and 10 heat cycles until the Wand 3.5V cut off.

The power delivery of the Wand depends on the vaporizer mass inserted, the heat cycle time (temp) chosen, and the battery voltage.
A Dynavap will draw less power than the Wand concentrate cup or the Tempest, for example.
A 260°C heat cycle will be shorter than a 360°C.
A 300°C heat cycle at full battery voltage is shorter than the same cycle at low battery.

Autonomy is related to the pair of 18650 batteries chosen.
These 18650 high discharge lithium batteries have great power, but offer no compromise with security, please do your safety homework.
Choose a minimal 20A Current Discharge Rating before any autonomy capacity specs.

USB C battery charging on the Wand isn't recommended, for emergency only, as this charging method will create an unbalanced battery voltage.
Always paired the same 18650 together, as they need to age at the same rate.
Charging in a proper external charger is essential, and multiple 18650 pairs will handle autonomy for the heavy users.

Batch 2 future Wand IH users, don't forget to get the Wand glass adapter and a Wand stand, you wi...

I am very happy with my Tempest Head and it works so nice with the Revolve 2 ( factory sec). The Revolve i buy here .. but the head i buy from le Central Vapeur..
I am from Switzerland and its costley with Tax n shipping. But i like the Tempest Head Revolve 2 Combo .. 2 nice tasty and cool vapor with the 50% bowl are no problem . With one heating with my The Wand.

And yes i want the beta test job , please

Simple and effective